Back
in 1866, Robert Hayton, a Grasmere businessman, had a brilliant idea.
He'd open a small tea shop, in a scenically beautiful position beside
the water, and hire out rowing boats so that visitors would not only
be able to partake of refreshments, but also enjoy a spot of trout
fishing during their holiday. There was just one small snag. The
teashop would not actually be in the village of Grasmere, or beside
the lake of the same name. It would be at the end of a two mile pony
track, 900 ft up on the fell-side, at Easedale Tarn, to the west of
Grasmere.
Over
20 labourers carried the materials needed to build the hut up the
fell side. How long it took them to construct the substantial stone
building is not known, but it was open for the summer season, and
soon became famous amongst early tourists for tea, sandwiches and
cake. To add to the attraction, there was boat hire for those wishing
to fish on the tarn.
The
existence of the tea hut shows how popular the excursion up to
Easedale Tarn was in mid Victorian times. In an age before walkers
regularly tramped their way up the hillside, a constant stream of
visitors made their way along the track that led up the fell-side
from Easedale Road to the tarn. Rather than walk, many would hire a
pony and guide for the trip. The ride offered not one, but two
natural attractions: the cascades of Sour Milk Gill (see short video below), and the tarn
itself, with its impressive backdrop of Tarn Crag.
The
success of the tea hut offers an indication of the way in which the
Lake District tourism industry developed during the Victorian period. The
advent of the railways had led to an increase in visitors, but there
were no attractions of the kind that modern tourists enjoy. Victorian
Grasmere had few shops. There were no museums or art galleries. In
addition, the summer holidays of wealthy tourists were considerably
longer than nowadays. There were no weekend breaks. Visitors stayed
for at least a fortnight, or more. Many would take up residence for
the entire summer, accompanied by an entourage of servants to ensure
all home comforts were provided.
For
most, the purpose of their visit was to escape the hustle and bustle,
and more importantly, the pollution, of the cities. Relaxing amidst
stunning scenery, breathing the fresh, clear air and drinking natural
water that was deemed to be amongst the purest it was possible to
get, was seen as being invigorating for the mind, body and soul.
Although few would have considered venturing out onto the fell-side
on a regular basis, the opportunity to visit a unique beauty spot was
not to be missed, especially if, on arrival, afternoon tea could be
readily obtained for a modest charge.
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| The Easedale Tarn tea hut, photographed in the late Victorian period. Although not large, the structure was substantially built in order to protect those inside from the elements. The site of the building can be accurately ascertained, as it was built adjoining a large rock, which formed part of the outside wall. Although the building no longer exists, the rock remains in place beside the path. (see picture below) |
The
lack of any form of heavy boots or weatherproof clothing was not seen
as a problem. Most wealthy visitors would not be walking, but
transported up the fell by pony, although it has to said that their
servants were expected to tramp up the fell behind them. All the
necessary arrangements required to protect them from inclement
weather would be provided by their guide, who would personally
guarantee not only their safety, but their absolute enjoyment of the
excursion.
The
Easedale tea hut is just one example of the ingenuity of the local
population in exploiting the tourist market. Although rarely as busy
as a modern day cafe, it opened each summer, serving both tourists
and, in later years, fell walkers, until the start of the second
world war. It enabled those early tourists to sample the delights of
the Lake District fells in relative safety, whilst ensuring that
their daily comforts were not disturbed by their trek onto the fell-side.
In
the late Victorian era, and on until the First World War, the
attitude of tourists became more adventurous. The two mile pony trek
up to Easedale Tarn was no longer sufficient to satisfy their needs.
Instead of being the final objective, the tea hut became a stop
en-route to higher destinations. However, that was not the reason for
it's demise. In an age before the thermos flask, it remained popular
as a stopping off point. It was ideally situated for a welcome break
before heading over to the Langdale Valley.
 |
| Looking across the tarn towards Tarn Crag, from close to the site of the old Tea Hut. |
The
number of walkers may have been drastically reduced following the
outbreak of war in 1914, but the stone built tea hut continued in use
for another 25 years. It closed for business at the end of August
1939, never to reopen. Over the years it fell into a state of
disrepair, and by 1958, when Alfred Wainwright published his guide to
the Central Fells, it was little more than a draughty ruin. Since
then, much of the stone with which it was built has been utilised by
local land owners for wall and footpath repairs, and now just a few
stones scattered around are all that is left. A large rock, which
once formed part of the main wall, and a patch of summer nettles, are
all that mark the spot upon which it used to stand.
 |
| All that remains of the tea hut. The large rock formed part of the outside wall. A bed of nettles inhabits a small area of ground that was once a small garden, featuring daffodils in spring, and a range of flowering plants during the summer months. The modern path follows the route of the old pony track. |
The
tea hut may be no more, but the pony track still exists, albeit as a
modern footpath. As in Victorian times, many walkers see it as the
destination of a summer afternoon stroll up the fell-side, whilst for
others it is simply a place to stop for a short rest, and maybe a
snack, before tackling the climb up over Blea Rigg to the mountains
beyond. What's certain is that the setting is no less beautiful than
it was on the day that Robert Hayton and his group of builders set to
work on building the tea hut. As with much of the Lake District,
society may have changed, but the beauty of the mountains, and their
power to relax and revitalise, remains very much the same.
The video below shows the route up to Easedale Tarn from the top of Easedale Road, in Grasmere. It features views of the valley, as well as Sour Milk Gill, and tells the story of the Greene family, who farmed on these hills at the started of the 19th C and whose lives were torn apart by tragedy. From there we move on to the Tarn itself, before heading back to Gramere via the path up Far Easedale. We hope you enjoy it.
The walk up to Easedale Tarn from Grasmere is featured in the Jonathan Craig Guides 'Walks Around Grasmere' book, which is available online here..
